We kick off a new series exploring the diverse culinary traditions of communities in our region. First up: a trip to Northern Virginia's Korea Town. We learn about the foundations of Korean cuisine, its link to Korean-American culture, and get some expert tips for the best local restaurants.
Local Restaurant Worldtour: Korean Cuisine
Listen Wednesday, Oct. 14, 2009 at 12:25 p.m. in Food, Recipes, SocietyGuests
Hisoo Shin Hepinstall
Terry Hong
Todd Kliman
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Sample Recipes
Chogaenun Kimchi Bokkum (Seared Scallops with Kimchi)
Recipe by Hi Soo Shin Hepinstall
I made this recipe with two most unlikely ingredients: spicy kimchi and delicate and succulent scallops. With additional ingredients, pears and summer squash, it makes a perfect marriage in look, texture and flavor.
Serves 4
Ingredients:
1 pound bay scallops, about 1 inch in diameter
2 teaspoons fine sea salt
1 tablespoon sweet rice powder or corn starch
1 cup clear chicken stock
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 cloves garlic, skinned and sliced into slivers
1 Korean pear, peeled and cut into 1 inch chunks
3 tablespoons dry white vermouth
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 large sweet green onion, cut into 1/2 inch rings
1/3 cups well matured whole cabbage kimchi, white stem part only, cut into 1/2 inch dices (optional)
1/2 pound summer squash, sliced into 1/2 inch rounds
1/2 pound oyster mushrooms, shredded
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 and 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
For garnish:
1 tablespoon parsley, minced
1 tablespoon pine nuts, finely chopped
Directions:
Wash scallops in chilled water and pat dry. Place in a large colander in one layer and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt. In a small bowl, dissolve the sweet rice powder in the chicken stock and set aside. In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium heat until hot. Add garlic. Saute for 2 minutes, until fragrant. Transfer to a bowl. Increase the heat to medium high, until very hot. Add scallops and pears in one layer and sear both sides, about 3 minutes per side. Add vermouth and sprinkle the lemon juice. Saute one more minute and transfer to a bowl. Add sesame oil, green onions, and kimchi. Saute for 1 minute. Transfer to the bowl beside the scallops and pears. With a paper towel, clean the skillet and add olive oil. Heat over high heat and add the summer squash and mushrooms in one layer. Cook until golden brown, 1 minute per side. Transfer to the bowl with the others. Reduce the heat to medium. Add the stock. Boil for 1 minute. Return all ingredients back to the skillet, add butter and toss all lightly. Add the black pepper. Transfer to a serving platter and sprinkle with the garnish. Serve with rice and green salad.
Fired Chicken (Tak Bulgogi)
Adopted from Hi Soo Shin Hepinstall, "Growing Up In A Korean Kitchen"
In this recipe, tender chicken breasts are marinated and then seared and cooked in a cast iron skillet. The result is crusty and juicy chicken with rich caramelized sauce. It makes a delicious entre and is a breeze to prepare. This timeless Korean classic will please everyone.
Serves 4
Ingredients:
4 skinless and boneless chicken breast halves, 6-8 ounces each
For the marinade: (makes about 1 cup):
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1/3 cup dry white vermouth
3 green onions, white and pale green part, finely minced
8 cloves garlic, grated
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
4 walnut halves, finely chopped
4 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon hot red pepper flakes, or to taste
1and 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of sea salt
4 tablespoons canola or olive oil for cooking
1 tablespoon chopped pine nuts for garnish
Directions:
Place each chicken breast between two sheets of wax-paper. Flatten with a wooden mallet, until each piece is about one and a half times its original size, keeping the original shape. In a small bowl, combine the marinade ingredients and mix well. Place the chicken breasts in a large bowl and spoon the marinade over each piece. Wrap the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. In a 12-inch or 14-inch cast-iron or nonstick skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat until it begins to smoke. Add the chicken, in a batch or all at once, and cook for 3 minutes per side, or to the desired doneness, flattening with a spatula to prevent curling. Turn only once. Repeat if necessary with the remaining chicken. Save the wonderfully caramelized pan juice to spoon over the chicken before serving. On a cutting board, cut each piece diagonally into thin slices. Divide on to individual plates, in a fan out pattern. Drizzle the caramelized pan juice over the chickens. Sprinkle pine crumbs and parsley over for garnish. Serve hot with steamed rice and any fresh green salad.
Red Hot Soft Bean Curd Stew (Sundubu-jigae)
Recipe by Hi Soo Shin Hepinstall
This is my version of a popular dish found in all Korean restaurants. It is a comfort food we grew up with.
Serves 4
INGREDIENTS:
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons sesame oil
6 cloves garlic, grated
2 strips pork belly slices (samgyeopsal), sliced into 1 inch pieces
2 cups kimchi, diced
4 green onions, white and pale green part, cut into thin rings
3 packages silken or soft bean curd (dubu), about 1 pound each, crumbled
4 medium size shrimp, with shell and deveined
4 cups chicken stock
2 hot green peppers, cut into thin rings
2 hot red peppers, cut into thin rings
3 tablespoons gochugaru (Korean hot red pepper powder) or to taste
4 eggs
1 large sweet green onion, white and pale green part only, cut into thin rings
Pinch of salt and pepper
DIRECTIONS:
In a large dutch oven, heat the olive oil and sesame oil over medium-high heat. Add garlic, pork, kimchi and green onions. Saute for about 3 minutes. Add bean curd and chicken stock. Bring to a vigorous boil over medium-high heat. Stir in Korean hot red pepper power and add peppers, reserving some for garnish. Again, bring it to a vigorous boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and crack and separately drop in 4 eggs. Cover for a few seconds, until eggs are sunny side up. With a ladle, divide into 4 ceramic bowls. Garnish each with green onions. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
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Comments
Those of us in the District are always on the lookout for great food--Korean or otherwise--without having to leave the District. There's two Korean restaurants worth mentioning off hand:
1. Adam Express - Mt. Pleasant
A nondescript hole-in-the-wall run by a friendly Korean couple. Their bibimbap is quite tasty. They serve non-Korean fare as well. The sushi is not bad, and I'm a big fan of the tempura shrimp udon soup.
2. Mandu - Adams Morgan
Truly excellent bibimbap, served in a traditional hot stone bowl. I really enjoyed their jun--mini pancakes stuffed with meat or seafood. As their name might imply, they do serve mandu--korean dumplings. I could just eat those and be quite happy!
Yum. Now I'm really hungry!
I find it insulting for Todd Kliman to use the word funky to describe Korean food. I would think he could use some other terminology to say that his friends find the food unpalatable. I don't think Ms. Hepinstall appreciated it very much either. There's nothing funky about the food. Italian food uses a lot of garlic, no one has called it funky. Pickles are a pickled food and, yet, never heard anyone use funky for it, even those who don't like it.
I'm surprised you'd find my comments "insulting," mcsebaca. If you listened to the program, you clearly heard a passionate lover of Korean cooking and of the vibrant scene in Annandale. My friends may not always enjoy coming along with me on my adventures in Koreatown, but that doesn't stop me.
It was with affection that I used the word "funky" to refer to the intensity of the flavors -- not just the conspicuous presence of garlic in many dishes, but also, as I said on-air, the use of pickling and fermentation. In my book, "funky" is not a negative at all; "funky" calls to mind a depth of flavor that is complex and strong and lingering.
And please don't ignore the context of my remarks -- we were discussing the chance of Korean restaurants becoming trendy or crossing-over, in the way that Thai and Japanese and even Burmese have. As I said, I'll be surprised if it happens. Surprised, but delighted.
The food at Mandu has nothing to do with real Korean food, it is passably good only if you've never eaten Korean food before. Rent a Zipcar and go out to Annandale it's worth the trip.
I don't think Ms. Hepinstall took any offense -- she was more interested in addressing the same issue, which she apparently acknowledged and has thought about, with her upcoming book -- apparently recipes for less funky kimchi. I always love the fresh versus well-fermented kimchi debates -- and I think Americans who aren't into the funk may dig the philosophy behind fresh kimchi. Many don't realize that kimchi is a class of food, not a single type. Just because your friend finds one appetizer to be "funky" (for better or for worse) doesn't mean all appetizers are like that.
I think what Mr. Kliman described -- the hesitation we encounter when trying to bring friends to a Korean table -- is a major problem we Korean food eaters face. I've had this problem countless times and with some people I've given up and don't bother "defending" Korean food anymore.
That said, does anyone have ideas for recommending Korean food to the uninitiated and potentially unadventurous? Anything besides bulgogi/kalbi/grilled meats and bibimbap (I'm sick of those). I'm apparently not a good predictor of what kinds of Korean foods cut it for the average American because I like them all. I recently suggested soondooboo chigae to an acquintance and I felt like they were trying to convince me that they didn't not like it the entire meal. Awkwardness.
Two trendy foods that weren't mentioned are fried chicken and yogurt. They don't sound Korean, but the Koreanized versions of these foods are popping up all over the area. The yogurt is basically the dessert stuff you'd find in a mall -- I'm not sure how it differs from frozen yogurt other than having "nutritional" marketing. But the chicken is actually much more of an interesting experience, that fans of chicken and non-fans of Korean food may want to try.